Dear Amsterdam,

Before I really talk about Amsterdam I have to mention what it was that brought me to the city. Ever since I was a small person Amsterdam has been a city I wanted to visit. Growing up I can remember hearing stories from my Mom about her time spent there. She made it sound like such a wonderful place. Recently, a little over a week ago, my Mom came to Europe. She planned to visit Amsterdam. There's not much better than seeing your Mom after months of being abroad, and getting to go to her favorite city with her. So thanks Mom! Thanks for coming to Euroland and thanks for letting me tag along with you and Sandi on y'all's vacation. It really meant a lot to me to see you. In my life you've been one of the most influential folks, if not the most. Where would I be without "The Little Prince"? You've also been my greatest supporter, without your help I wouldn't be who I am today. It's not a joke that when asked what my greatest achievement is I've said, "I made my Mom proud".

But, all of that aside, I developed my own individual fascination with Amsterdam. Mostly thanks to the bicycle. Possibly man's greatest invention. Far better than sliced bread. More practical than a space shuttle. Prettier than Mona Lisa. Our most efficient machine. I knew Amsterdam was big on the bike. But one day in Barnes & Noble I came across Pete Jordan's book "In The City of Bikes", the story of the Amsterdam cyclist. In this book he gives his own perspective and stories of cycling in the city while giving an exciting account of the bikes role. My favorite bit? When he points out Anne Frank had written in her diary about riding her bike and shaking off boys trying to ask her out. After reading this book I was even more into the idea of visiting sometime.

That sometime became November 30th - December 3rd 2014. The morning of the 30th we left London from King's Cross via train and would later be leaving Centraal Station for Singel Hotel. That's the day I fell in love with a city. It isn't like anywhere I've ever been, and it's better than I imagined. Which doesn't happen often as I'm quite good at using my imagination. But it wasn't really until December 1st that Amsterdam took a bit of my heart. On that day I rented a bicycle. It took the better part of the day to build up the courage to join the sea of commuters but soon I'd find myself in Kings Bikes. There I talked to the very friendly Isaac and decided to rent a bike I never thought of myself riding. A beast of incredible weight. A step-through frame. Accessorized with a bell, front and rear light, fenders, a rack, and two bike locks. Pete Jordan often talks about bike theft in his book and Isaac confirmed it. Letting me know to use both locks at all times. Maybe I could get away with one if it's daylight and I'm parked in a nice place. And to always try to lock up on a fence if possible. He also showed me a picture of a common bike parking area, a white square on the ground. Saying if I see that, make sure I put the bike there. Otherwise the government gets it and that's a real pain. Isaac's last advice was to stick to the right side of the road as one way lanes don't really apply to cyclists.

All of a sudden I was sailing down cobbled streets, cruising alongside canals. To become aclimated I followed other people around, being a bit of a shadow. Soon I was lost in the city tailing person after person. It was the most fun I've had in a while, all for about €12/day. Over time I became more confident and comfortable. I stopped following others and began turning down any little street that looked interesting. Cycling on its own is a fantastic time and in Amsterdam, a stunning city, there's so much to look at. Not just the city itself either but also its people. Certainly some of the most attractive folks in the world are riding around the city on their bikes. This time of the year they are bundled up, scarves wrapped around their necks. Eyes watering and noses running.

Their bikes by the way are not... well... nice. Many fit the term "clunker" well. Making a clunking sound as they go by. Dry chains chatter. Bike locks, fenders, racks, the rider and everything else rattles over cobbles. My hotel room looked out at the canal and the street, I could always hear the bike orchestra rolling by. The daily stream of commuters, the late night riders, and the folks on their way to work in the morning. It's a lovely sound and there's hardly a car. From time to time the ringing of a bell is added in as a brief warning to pedestrians walking in the street or another rider being over taken. Maybe even some chatter as a group of friends pass. It's how every city should sound. And there's nothing pretentious about the Amsterdam cyclist, their bikes as evidence. The man in a suit, the fashionable young lady, and the "cool" kids all ride clunkers. I never saw a carbon bike and only once saw lycra. The bike is more of a car, a mode of transportation, than it is a way to stay in shape. But it's far better than a car.

There are a few places my bike took me that a car never could. Or, it'd be really frowned upon for a car to take you there. For instance down a one way street the wrong way. No big deal on a bike, just stick to the right. Vondels Park is another place, where I saw the only lycra'd cyclist. It's a wonderful park filled with joggers, boxers, water fowl, and of course bikes. But possibly my favorite exclusive spot was the tunnel under the Rijks Museum. Here cyclists are free to pass under a building filled with hundreds of years of history. Ever since reading about this path in "In The City of Bikes" I knew it was something I wanted to do. And now I've done it! A few times, just for good measure. Another joy of the bike is the ability to start, stop, and park just about anywhere. Many lights were hung around the city and at night it was beautiful. I'd hop on my bike and check it all out, free to stop and take pictures as I pleased. Bikes themselves add aesthetic appeal to the city. Someone seeing a canal might not automatically think Amsterdam. But a canal lined with parked bikes?

Unfortunately it all came to an end. On the morning of the 3rd I went out for one last spin. By this time I was very comfortable riding in most, if not all, situations. Maybe not as comfortable as the woman I saw reading and riding though. In fact, she made me a bit uncomfortable. I could navigate with some ease, able to find my way about with a few landmarks. I'd re-visit some of my favorite places before heading back to the rental place and returning the bike at the last minute. Stripped of my wings I walked back to the hotel to gather my things and head to the airport with my Mom. She was headed back to the US and I was off to Scotland, where I am now. But I know sometime soon in the future I'll once again be on a bike in the city of bikes. Maybe not a step-through though.

Sincerely,
Zeb

P.S.
Everyone should go to Amsterdam and ride a bike! Even if you're not an avid cyclist. It really does change your perspective of the city, and it's so much fun! If you're interested I highly recommend Pete Jordan's book. I can't wait to re-read it with having had this experience. He also gives tours of the city by bike, I found out too late to do that though.

I'm now up in the highlands of Scotland working at The Lazy Duck. I already love it. The beauty and people here are helping me forget the sadness of leaving Amsterdam behind.