Dear Budapest,

Once again I've come to a place that I find hard to describe, but I'll see if I can do it anyway.  Budapest is a grand city and it's one I know I'll come back to one of these days.  However I know the next time I come back it might not be the same.  Sure the city will be mostly unchanged, the same buildings, same streets.  It's the people that will have changed.  It's the people that are the reason I'll tell people, "Yeah, Budapest was one of my favorite places."

Here I am, sitting in a guy named Galen's apartment.  It's a wonderful little place with a kitchen, living room, and a bathroom.  In the living room there's a lofted bedroom on wooden beams.  The walls are mostly stone and brick as well as the ceiling.  Unfortunately the dust from the brick may be causing Galen to have an allergic reaction but it's arguably worth it to live in such a cool place.  It's so "Euro".  Plus we're right next to St. Stephen's Basilica, it might be a three minute walk if you turn off all the lights and lock the door on the way out.  Technically I'm couchsurfing but really it feels more like sleeping over at a friend's house. Those that are curious may wonder "But Zeb, how did you end up there?" And that's where the story begins.

Way back in the days of Iceland I was chatting with my friend Camille on Facebook.  Camille is one of the first people I ever traveled outside the US with.  She was a trip leader when I went to Peru.  Through Facebook I'd learn that she was headed to Budapest and she mentioned I should come visit.  In retrospect I really hope she was sincere.  Normally this is a thing said just to be said.  Had she really expected me jump on board so eagerly at the chance to see Budapest?  It was a plan made so far in advance, maybe I wouldn't really make it or back out.  Thankfully, I think she was glad to have me here.  If not, Camille, you should consider a career in acting.  Or politics.  Back in Iceland Hungary had seemed like a dream, something vague but a bit tangible.  Maybe it was possible I'd make it there.  Soon enough I was woken up as the plane touched down with a rumble.  Ready or not there I was.  The day before arrival I had discovered a campsite which was conveniently right next to CEU's dorms and this is where I headed after landing.  I'd pay 3,000 HUF (~15 USD) to catch a ride in a minibus to the dorm about 40 minutes away.  This is compared to the 45 USD I paid in Norway to go six miles.  Starting off with a good impression.  Camille was locked in a desperate battle with an eight hour long exam which is something I'd rather not know exists.  Like the boogeyman.  Who is so bold to play God and create such a beast?  My palms sweat just thinking about it.  Because of this she was not able to meet me when I first arrived so I headed for the campsite on my own.

When arriving at the campsite I was greeted by a beefy dog named "Titus" that decided I was a bit of an intruder.  Possibly due to my working with the sled dogs I decided to ignore his barking advance and walked right by into the reception.  In hindsight maybe I should have waited for the woman to come outside first.  Maybe I'm lucky that I didn't spend my first few days here getting stitched up.  Either way, I soon learned that reception was closed and I'd have to come back in the morning but I could pitch my tent wherever I wanted.  Escorted by Titus I headed into the campsite over the "babbling brook" (sewer) and found a nice cozy spot between two trees.  The campsite was agreeable but it did have its quirks.  Plumbing and facilities were freshly renovated though so that's fair.  One evening I was doubly glad for this as I got to know the bathroom very well.  It had been a long time since I had real spicy food so when in a Chinese restaurant I discovered a chili sauce, well.... I went a bit overboard.  Getting a second meal just to eat something hot.  But that was another day, first meeting with Camille.

I walked back over to the dorm, conveniently three minutes away, to wait in the lobby.  Soon after Camille would show up fresh out of the gladiatorial arena.  After exchanging greetings and hugs I was off to meet the crew, a group of her wonderful classmates.  The cast included but was not limited to: Illya, Justina, Carly, Lotszi, and more.  All names are subject to being misspelled.  Illya is an interesting character full of surprises and intelligence, Justina is a Lithuanian sweetheart, Carly a former Colorado University cyclist, and Lotszi a man with good humor.  There were others but my memory fails me and I wouldn't run into them too much after this initial meeting.  In this kitchen/lounge area I was initiated into the cult with shots of Palinka, the Hungarian liquor used as a cure all.  Headache? Palinka.  Too full? Palinka.  Tooth hurts? Palinka.  Hungover? Palinka.  Just finished an eight hour exam? Palinka.  Soon we'd head down to the dorm's dining hall to have some dinner (suspect) followed by a trip to the bar for foozeball (sp?) and pool.  Their dorm is college in a building.  But as I heard someone put it "everything you need, nothing you want".  I'd later retire to the campsite after an enjoyable night with people from around the world.

The next few days I'd spend sleeping at the campsite and meeting with Camille in the morning to head into the heart of the city.  Once in the city I'd spend my time wandering around and exploring.  That first day is the one I encountered the Chinese restaurant.  I'd also go see an island park, reminiscent of Central Park in New York.  As well as the parliament building and chain bridge.  Eventually I'd try to make it to find the school building to meet back up with Camille.  It took me a while and along the way I found an English bookstore where I bought the Dune Trilogy.  This has hit the spot perfectly for my craving of a fantasy to escape into for a bit.  It also made that first night a bit more bearable as I couldn't sleep anyway.  My restless night was mostly due to my spicy overdose but also to the campsite's "tranquil" location next to a train track and under airplane flight paths.  But hey, they've got that new plumbing.  The next day I'd make it to the House of Terror, a museum built in the old "House of Loyalty" and dedicated to Hungary's tragic past involving occupation by both Nazi and Communist forces.  The museum filled with powerful imagery and knowledge gave me a perspective on this country and its people.  A further reminder of how lucky it is to be an American, and of our responsibility as humans to do what we can to help fellow humans.  Yikes. On a much lighter note, I'd spend many hours one of these days in the Cat Cafe. A cafe with 12 cats (4 Maine Coon, 8 rescue) that keep you company while you eat or drink. When entering you must wash your hands before touching the cats. I'd be followed to the bathroom by a black and white cat. He'd eventually hop up to investigate me much to the surprise of the staff. I felt like the cat messiah. Of course you can also meet people here as well. Like the friendly lady I met who was stopping in before a job interview. I had to add sugar to her coffee while she held it because an orange cat became interested. We talked a while and I hope she's now employed!

Eventually we'd arrive at a long weekend starting Wednesday night.  This weekend is when a few others entered the picture.  Rachel the friendly Australian, John the (when inebriated) direction challenged Irishman, Arturus boyfriend of Justina (and now good friend of mine), and the friendly and charming Galen.  Also briefly on Wednesday night I'd be introduced to Thomas and Johnathan, more friends of Camille.  These two she met on a bus near her host mother's house.  We'd have a fantastic dinner with them at a small restaurant where I had the best lemonade I've ever had.  I wish I would have met them again during my stay here.  This weekend I was also incredibly spoiled.  Camille and I would go to stay at her host Mom's house where I had my own room.  No more Titus, trains, and planes.  It was a longer commute but totally worth it.  Complete with two home cooked meals my first day there.  The first of which was prepared by the host grandmother.  We'd go to her house in an old communist block style building (I'd always been curious about going in one of these) and have a great meal.  Later that night I'd get another. Forever I'll remember the kindness of this Hungarian family that let me, a stranger, into their home. I'll also always remember Balint, the host brother. A goofy guy that played on the Hungarian hockey team. One of the days that weekend we'd leave early and stay out late so he could have some privacy with a lady. He might wish we would have stayed. That morning while she stayed in his room, and he ate breakfast with us, he told us the lessons he learned about online dating. 1. Always have at least one conversation via phone. 2. Never invite her to your house. It's easier to leave that way. And of course the lovely sister whose name I shamefully have forgotten. She showed us my favorite restaurant here and was a joy to talk with.

The following days were filled with eating and drinking all over town.  Slowly (actually pretty quickly) I'd begin building strong friendships with those around me.  Arturus and I would quickly fall into a "bromance" as Camille called it.  One day I hope to visit he and Justina's home country of Lithuania.  This friendship developed over many good meals and late nights (one of which Camille and I didn't make it back until 6am) eating gyros and pizza from restaurants lining the streets.  A guy named Eddy with an aggressive personality and John the Irishman also became some of the regular folks I'd see.  We'd find ourselves in a number of locations from a karaoke bar to a left leaning "underground" bar which had reopened in a new district after a mysterious closing.  Spending time with these folks all over the city has been an absolute joy.  One evening spent at Galen's drinking mulled wine and eating apple pie is how I came to find myself where I am.  In one of our conversations he mentioned that he's an avid couchsurfer, both host and guest. It was Saturday night and school would be starting back up so we'd be leaving Camille's host family soon.  I asked him if he might be open to having a guest.  Despite his heavy workload with school he agreed and I'd leave his house that night with a set of keys in my pocket.

And so the next few days I'd spend in the comfort of his apartment crashing on his couch.  From here I've ventured out in the city to see Castle Hill, home of a nice second-hand English bookshop as well as some nice old buildings.  I've also been to see Gul Baba's tomb, the only Muslim pilgrimage site in Christian  Europe.   Which too be honest was a bit of a sad place, neglected and with its outer walls covered in graffiti. Budapest is full of surprises.  But most of all, as I've constantly been reminded, it's the people I meet that define my journey.  I came here to meet a friend and now I'm leaving with many more.  There's no better souvenir.  On my final night here Camille, Carly, and I finally fulfilled our vows from the first week and got on the massive ferris wheel.  Despite our worries we made it back down safely.  After saying our goodbyes I walked back to Galen's where he, Lina and Justina were wrapping up some schoolwork.  I'm glad I was able to see them too for a farewell.  It's not really a goodbye, just a see you later. To them and the city, even if I don't see both at the same time again.

Sincerely,
Zeb

P.S.
I should mention that it may appear I've glossed over many details about what I've done while here.  I feel that I certainly have anyway.  But I knew I'd risk doing that by putting off writing the post for so long.  Maybe I should have broken this up into two?  One after each of the five days I've been here.  So here's a brief list of others things I loved in the city: The affordability, food is cheap and I like that a lot.  Public transportation, some of it looks scary (graffiti, dirty, etc.) but it works and it gets you there and it's cheap.  The architecture, many of the buildings are beautiful and old.  Walkable, you can really walk anywhere if you have the time and don't mind.  And surely much more that I'll remember at an inconvenient time.  If you have any questions about what I did please feel free to ask!  I recommend Budapest (and Hungary!) to everyone.

Also, since I've been in the city there have been protests against an internet tax.  Today's is claimed to have had over 100k participants.  Not only that, but I've also learned about protests over monuments put up also.  Like the one that represents all Hungarians (not just the Jewish ones) as victims of the Nazis despite many Hungarians supporting the cause.  Hungary is an interesting place in the world and they have many problems (their current government) to overcome still.  And it's a place that has captured a place in my mind.  I hope the very best for the people here.

Dear Basel,

We only got to hang out for a bit and I might not know you too well but I'm glad we met. Basel is the city that I arrived in upon finishing the Westweg and it's where I'd relax until my flight to Budapest. I spent two and a half fun filled days being lazy here.

As I mentioned in a previous post after arriving I headed for a campsite just outside of town. From the German train station I first took a bus to the Swiss/French station which many of the town trams arrive outside of. There's something about public transport that I love. It's so convenient, and after walking so long it was a nice rest. The bus took me through town and over the Rhine. The whole trip I'd be fascinated by the architecture and life in the city. Often I'd find myself wondering about the people I saw and the lives they live. And I was always envious of those on bikes who seemed so at home going in and out of traffic. These cyclists were a different breed. They didn't appear timid at all, they knew that they owned the road just as much as a car driver. And they were so fluid, looking at home on a bike. Often I saw elderly folks hop on and off their bike like a pro cyclocross racer. And everyone had such interesting bikes. Mostly old, rarely new. Everyone on the road did respect the dinosaurs. The busses and trams. After I hopped off the bus I hopped on a tram. It was just as much fun, if not more, as the bus. Like a train that uses the roads. What a great thing. Luckily I was never in a rush so I hop on and off whenever I wanted. Miss one? No problem, I could wait for the next. Often I'd see folks in a full sprint only to have the ruthless Tramlord shut the doors and drive away. Good thing trams arrive often.

After hopping off I had to try and find the campsite. After spinning in a few circles I noticed a sign with a tent pointing down a dark street. I'd follow this street until it hit an end with no signs. Time to choose left or right. I picked right and luckily a young couple that passed would ask me if I needed help. I had picked the wrong direction. After a bit of walking and talking, the woman exclaimed that she loves the USA, they pointed me down a staircase assuring me the campsite was there somewhere. I would find it, reception closed, and have to pitch my tent in the dark. In the morning I'd find out I had pitched my tent in a place designated for a camper. Oops. After moving my tent and doing a bit of laundry it was time to see the city.

On tram 11 at the Gartenstadt stop there was a Co-op, a swiss grocery store. This is where I'd be buying most of the things that I ate. Stopping for breakfast and dinner each time. In Iceland I acquired the taste for Skyr, a delicious yogurt, and the store had a great bakery. Most meals I ate included Skyr and baked goods. It wasn't the healthiest but I loved it. Switzerland is also quite an expensive country so it wasn't too cheap either. Most of the money I saved by sleeping in a tent went to food. Once I made it into town my goal was to try and reach Augst. A small town outside the city. Home to the largest Roman theatre north of the Alps. After a short walk and long bus ride I'd arrive. Two ladies also got off at this stop and like me began to wonder where the ruins were. Turns out they're a couple of New Yorkers in Basel on a work trip. They work with dancers to help them recover. We consulted a map and then took a walk eventually ending in Augusta Raurica, tiny Rome. We walked around admiring the mostly reconstructed ancient ruins. They seemed a little underwhelmed by it all, one claiming she had seen better, but I was a bit fascinated. Here were the remaines of a theatre, bakery, amphitheatre, temple and walls. All built so long ago! How cool it all was. Except the temperature, it was actually a very warm day. After looking around we'd head back to catch the bus back into town. Off the bus we said our goodbyes and I headed back to the campsite.

The next day my mission was to send a few postcards and maybe see a museum. I headed back to the station at the end of the Westweg for postcards, free internet and free bathrooms. I ended up also having a nice conversation with the woman that sold me my postcards. She was very interested to find out that I'm an American. Saying my English was "very good". She usually has a problem understanding folks from the US. This got us into an interesting conversation about language. I was unaware that there really isn't a Swiss language. She said it's mostly dialects of French, German and Italian. Once our conversation was over I headed for the Kunstmuseum which I had seen outside of the window from tram 2. Having sent my brother a postcard with a picture of it I figured I might as well visit. And so that is how I'd find myself wandering around halls filled with art from Van Gogh, Picasso, Magritte, Dali and Monet. Plus a lot of other names I didn't recognize. A few I knew I should have from an art history class at App. Surprisingly I found myself enjoying quite a bit of it. Maybe I didn't "understand" it all but it was nice to look at. There was of course only so much time I could spend looking at it all so I was soon back out on the streets. Here I stumbled across Basel's downtown shopping area filled with lots of shops I mostly hear about from rappers. I passed most of these and opted to buy food instead. I'd eat some form of roasted acorn like thing and a Swiss Quesadilla, I enjoyed both. The only shop I spent much time in was a Gamestop. Here I was nostalgic over good times back home having my adventures from the comfort of the living room. I do miss playing video games and I've spent some time talking with Will about them. But, my love for games and explanation of it is for another time. It was horrifying to see that a new game here costs almost $95. See Mom, I could have wasted more money! We've got it easy back home.

After exiting the Gamestop I was off to find a tram stop and a way back to the campsite. Last night was my last night in Basel. Currently I'm sitting in the Euro Airport on the corners of France, Germany and Switzerland. At 2:10pm (here) I'll be flying off to Budapest. There I've got a campground space conveniently close to my friend Camille's university. From there I'll be spending the next while exploring Budapest and the surrounding area. Can't wait. Hope all is well for all who are reading this, and thanks for reading! Until next time.

Sincerely,
Zeb

Dear Westweg Pt. 2,

Stage 7: Hausach - Brend 33km
Or something like that. I told myself I was done walking more than that day's stage, but I lied. I reached the end of stage 7 around 2:00pm and didn't feel like stopping. So I continued on. This stage started out straight up. When cycling I generally enjoy climbing and tend to think of it as something I'm decent at. New roads with new climbs would often get me a bit excited. Since travelling I've seen and walked on quite a few roads that made me wish I had a bike. The start of this trail was wide enough for cycling, but I didn't wish for a bike. In fact I wished I was somewhere else. The grade was at points outrageous. My nose was almost in the grass in front of me. And it continued like this continued for many kilometers. Eventually flattening out and weaving through the Schwarzwald dairy land. It was a nice change of scenery from the trees that had become the norm.

That night I'd make it to a hotel found in the back of the Westweg brochure gifted to me by the two friendly Israeli guys. The Goldener Rabe. If I could read German my brochure may have said something like "Warning: may contain vampires." It's a large old yellow building that looks friendly enough from the outside but was dark on the inside. I opened the front door and walked into an empty dining area with no lights on. A door to my left slid open and a woman with dark circles around both eyes came into the room. I'm not sure what century she's from but it pre-dates the USA as she looked confused when I said that I'm from the United States. She did however speak a bit of English and soon I was being taken through a dark stairwell down a dark hallway to my room. I opted to pay a few extra euros for the one with a toilet and shower attached so I could stay in the safety of my own room. The next morning I came down to the dining area for breakfast. Population: Me, an orange cat that licked my butter, an old black lab, and the vampire and her sister.

Stage 9: Brend - Titisee 30km
I set off at a good pace eager to put some distance between myself and the Goldener Rabe. While it was nice enough, I couldn't shake the gloomy feel. Once again I'd walk a little more than I had too. This stage was fairly uneventful aside from a lovely family that offered me sweets along the way. Some sort of cakes, whatever they were they were delicious. I'd make it to Titisee, after getting lost for a bit, and settle into a small guesthouse. The night before I didn't have much for dinner so this night I treated myself to a whole pizza. And it was so good. I'd go to sleep full and happy to know that I only had three more days of walking left.

Stage 10: Titisee - Wiedener Eck 35km
Titisee was about 5km from the real end of stage 10 so I had some catching up to do. But not until I bought some bread and cheese to help me through the day. 5km into the hike I met a feline friend who I stopped to talk with for a bit. He followed me a while before the trail met a road and the cars scared him off. Hope he is well out in the world. The halfway point of stage 10 is the top of Feldberg, highest point in the Black Forest, at 1495m. The hike up was much easier than expected and was a well populated area. I ran into a friendly group that asked me if I was Irish. I'm an American in disguise over here. They were however happy to hear that that is what I am. And one from North Carolina too, a state they had just been talking about. They let me know that they had met very friendly folks in the states and wished me the best of luck on my journey. After Feldberg I found a much appreciated resting spot. It was a large tree that had been cut down with places to lay down added on. I sat there for a while before continuing. Just before reaching Wieden I'd run into another man from Israel. We'd finish the stage together. He was hiking with his brother who got tired and took a bus ahead to the end. In Wieden we parted ways as I attempted to find another guesthouse. The first I found wasn't open but the owner let me take a short cut into town through his goat herd, even cutting off the electric fence for me. In town I'd find Haus Barbel where a friendly lady and I battled through the language barrier to get everything in order. After dinner in town I returned and after getting inside after believing myself locked out I hopped into bed to prepare myself for the second to last day.

Stage 11: Wiedener Eck - Kandern 33km
What a day. This stage also started out steep and hosted some of my favorite views of the whole Westweg. It was however also fairly uneventful. At Haus Barbel I drank my first cup of coffee in years and I credit that to helping the first half go quickly. Unfortunately though the last 10k would probably be the hardest of the Westweg as I hit the wall and had to hobble into Kandern. Quite literally hobble as my left leg decided we were no longer friends. In Kandern I stuffed myself full of kebab and pizza in one of Europe's wonderful kebab and pizza places. They seem to be widespread like fast food joints and very well priced. Afterwards I'd limp about in the rain searching for the cheapest place to stay that I could find. It was however the most expensive place (and least nice) I'd stay the whole hike at €45. In my room I'd find a pair of pants left behind with €70. Was it immoral for me to take the money? Probably. Do I feel bad about it? Honestly, not too much.

Stage 12: Kandern - Basel 26km
This stage was... well... extremely uneventful. Almost downright boring. Also it rainded hard the first 13km. My leg was also still very much not on good terms with the rest of me. In Basel the trail was not very well marked and often I wondered if I was still following it. Eventually, and not soon enough, I'd find myself in Basel outside a train station. There I was unsure if I had really completed the trail until seeing a small sign that let me know I was at the end. No grand finale, no applause. Inside the station I'd find my friend, Cedar, and his brother Thunder. I don't remember their names, only the English translation. We shared similar thoughts of being underwhelmed at the finish. Cedar believes only 6-7 stages were really worth doing and looking back on it maybe he's right. But here I am in Basel with the trail behind me. And glad to say it's something I've done.

Upon arrival I sat in the station and ate a lot of food. Eventually I'd make my way to the tram station and head for a campsite just outside town. Currently I'm sitting on a bench somewhere in the middle of town writing this. Soon I'll head back toward the campsite. On Sunday I've got a flight to Budapest to see my friend Camille and the city. While I'm excited to do so I'll first be enjoying my time here in Switzerland, or at least a part of it. Basel is lovely so I'm sure to post about it soon.

Goodbye Westweg! Goodbye Germany!

Sincerely,
Zeb