Dear Rondane,

I'm glad I got to visit you, if only for a bit. You're the oldest national park in Norway but still full of plenty of surprises for a new guest.

On September 25th both Anna and I landed in Norway. Her flight was earlier than mine and to add to that mine got delayed. Our initial plan was to head for Jotunheimen but this was altered after Anna was told at the Norwegian Trekking Association that conditions would be miserable there. By the time I caught a train to Oslo from the airport our destination had changed to Rondane National Park. Here the weather would be a bit more gentle. So that night after a bit of grocery shopping we caught a late bus, at 10:00 pm, up to Otta. We arrived at 3:15 am. With a bit of rest from the ride and no desire to pay for camping in a country with wonderful wild camping laws we headed for Mysusater. A lady in a 24 hour gas station, rarely seen in Iceland, gave us directions that included "then you go up". And so up we went on a switchbacking road for many kilometers. Not far in, despite the cold, we had shed many layers. Before finding a trail and leaving the road we crossed paths with some critters which I now believe to have been musk ox. It certainly didn't look to be a sheep, but I was tired and it was dark. Along the trail we made it in total 7km before calling it quits and pitching the tents. We'd wake up that next morning to find our campsite in the backyard of two homes. Oops. The homes are beautiful by the way. Picturesque cabins with grass or slate roof tops and built out of wood. It's hard to believe people can live in these, where do I sign up?

We slept until about 10 and then headed the rest of the way to town. Once we refound the trail we lost in the night of course. In Mysusater we stopped by the service center to check the bus schedule before heading into the park. The trail to Spranget took us through a wooded area along a river complete with waterfalls. The trees were lovely and added a certain scent to the air that I will always remember along with Norway. But it wouldn't be long before we left the trees behind as we found Spranget. A place where folks used to leap across the rivet before a bridge was installed. You can also find remnants of reindeer traps in the area. Out of the trees we were met by the wind and oddly enough a parking lot not far away. Folks can drive up to do some short day hikes, rides, or to get to Rondbassvu. Rondbassvu, which I surely could be spelling incorrectly, is a "hut" run by DNT. It's really more of a compound that sells €40 dinners to rich folks and offers room/campsite rental with access to the common room. We bypassed the compound to pitch our tents within sight of its warmth. There we struggled to keep the stove going while making a dinner. The next morning we woke up still with warmth in view and covered in snow. Rondane's first surprise.

With snow on the ground and a vicious wind blowing we opted to not go over a mountain pass and instead head for Bjørnhollia, another DNT compound. Our route took us between ridges over rock fields and by lakes. The wind our constant companion. Along this route, like the one to Spranget, we saw many dead Lemmens. Maybe they knew the snow was on its way and decided to give up. Not us. Or the crazy folks we saw fishing. Just under 4 hours later we reached Bjørnhollia. Here we met a kind Norwegian lady with a beautiful English Setter puppy. She told us some about herself and Norway as well as carnivores we may keep an eye out for. Most interesting was the "Glutton" which appears to be a small bear with big paws that runs straight up mountains. This creature stayed on my mind much of the next 4 hours of hiking, until I thought maybe she meant a badger. I'm still not sure. We headed south towards Eldabu following reindeer tracks and more lakes. This time leaving behind the wind for a moment. We passed a few small huts, even daring to look in one, and many stream crossings before settling down for the night. I'd later wake up to pee under a starry sky which I didn't view long as the wind said hello.

Now on the 28th we reached Eldabu but not before running into a Norwegian character. A man being pulled on his bike by two lovely looking dogs. He had what appeared to be a house on his back and in his saddle bags along with a rifle. He looked capable of leaving society behind for years. At Eldabu we rested for a bit before heading on. This stretch of our adventure offered the grandest views off steep cliffs and down to huge lakes. We felt as if we were lost in the wild until greeted by the sounds of children. Could these be the troll kids wearing sweaters made by their parents Asbjørn mentioned? Nei. Just normal kids with parents in tow that live down in small huts accessible by a road to who knows where. Not long after we'd find a small dip in the ground to hide from the wind. By this point our nemesis.

Our final day we continued up to Spranget and then back into Mysusater to the luxury of flushing toilets and loaves of bread. I even splurged on a pepsi and lion bar. Eating in a small shelter we met two Germans on a reunion trip back in Norway. Both finishing grad school, one develops phone apps and the other runs marathons. They told me I must try "young wine" and onion cake when I reach Germany. They were considering the hike back to Otta much like us until we told them of the bus. The app developer had developed a bum knee and was glad to hear of it. That is until it was revealed the bus was no longer running. Luckily the two Germans got a ride from the service center owner. Anna and I were faced with the 14km back to town. It was already getting late but being well rested from our long lunch break and chat we went for it. Finding a new trail to follow thru Harry Potter forbidden forest-esque terrain helped make it easier. A little over half way back we camped off the road on soft ground and finished off our bread and cheese with tomato soup. As we got in our tents to sleep a stray animal of some kind, wearing a bell, decided to walk up and down the road. This kept us up a bit.

Finally, today on the 30th, we made it to Otta. Stopping in at a gas station for more flushing toilets beforr heading to the library to research our next adventure with Cinthia who arrives today. We're now on the bus approaching Oslo where we'll wait for her. I'll miss the Rondanes and it's scenery. But I'll remember what it taught me, to be patient. When backpacking everything takes time. Setting up to sleep, getting ready to go, eating food and just getting around. Over 80km with 30lbs on your back makes you think about a lot. It made dinner taste better, cars seem cool again, and rest so rewarding. Just having a peak at all the landscapes we saw was a reward in itself. And of course I'll never forget getting snowed on in September and the wind which taught me to appreciate trees.

Sincerely,
Zeb

Dear Iceland,

What can I say? You are: magical, cozy, incredible, sublime, amazing, awesome, exciting, charming, etc. But of course I must also add that you're a bit cloudy, wet and dreary. Don't take it the wrong way though, it's part of your charm. A bit like a friendly black cat that sheds and drools. I'm willing to deal with your quirks.

I've been thinking too that maybe it's those quirks that make this place so special. Or maybe I've been rained on so much I've just convinced myself that I like it. Pitching a tent in the rain and then packing it up in the rain can be a bit demoralizing. But like when in Skaftafell that rain clears to reveal the most beautiful night sky I've ever seen, well, sometimes getting rained on isn't so bad. And when you're driving along the coast and mountains are covered in clouds, it adds a certain character to them. A bit mysterious. Images of Godzilla lurking around entered my mind as I looked up. He'd fit in pretty well here. Often I also expressed my wish for a kite, you'd be in danger of flight yourself while flying one. But watching the pattern the wind makes blowing the grass around in a field or on the water in a lake at the bottom of a crater makes you appreciate it.

You get a real sense that this country is alive. Not just from the wind and the rain. At Krafla we saw bubbling mud, Mývatn the volcanic glow in the sky, Skaftafell a bit of glacier and northern lights, Akranes was home to fierce winds and the ocean, and Thingvellir a rift in the land between two continental plates. The waterfalls, like stars, would be near impossible to count. Endless lava fields, some covered in moss, and huge craters remind you of Iceland's past. So do the fjords, giving you a feel for the power of nature. Often we would ask ourselves "Where are we?", "Is this even real?" Asbjørn would mention that he felt like he was in a dream, a feeling I can relate to. Iceland is a different world from any other I've seen. I'll miss it here but one day I'll come back.

Right now I'm writing this post from a comfortable bed here in the Hlemmur Square hostel, downtown Reykjavik. It's quite a luxury. For the first night in a while (50+ days) I'm not in a sleeping bag and I've got a real pillow. Sounds of street traffic comes up into our dorm from below. Yesterday we ate in a real restaurant, with a waitress, and wandered around town. Reykjavik is different from where I've been. And I like it. A lot. As far as cities go this is my favorite so far. Taking down the tent in near hurricane winds with a light drizzle yesterday morning may influence that. Or it might be just that this place is nice. With 66-75% of Icelands population and tourists flooding the streets I never once felt crowded. The stone streets, trees, and architecture all make for a lovely walk. The people are friendly and far more fashionable than I'll ever be. Reykjavik will be added to the long list of places I wish I had more time for. But for now, if only for a bit, it feels nice to be back in "civilization".

One of the stars of my "Dear Friends," post, Anna, has already left. She's headed for Norway and soon I will follow. When my flight lands I'll take a train to Oslo to meet her at the bus station. From there we'll hop on a bus and head out into the wild. Lots of backpacking is ahead of us.

For now though I'll enjoy my last little bit here. So thank you Iceland, again, for being what you are. An island in the middle of the Atlantic that's like nothing I've seen. You've certainly had an impact on my life and captured part of my heart. One day I'll be back!

Sincerely,
Zeb

Dear Friends,

I'm so thankful to have you in my life. Here in Iceland I've seen natural wonders that I can hardly describe. Right now I can step out of our campsite's communal room here in Mývatn and see the distant glow of the volcanic eruption reflected on the clouds. Today we went from skipping stones at the coast, driving in fjords, a tiny fishing village, up a mountain pass, tunnels and a moonlike landscape. Yesterday Asbjørn, Anna and I jogged from our camp in Skaftafell to the foot of a glacier tongue. Later Megan joined us for a 7km hike up to a lookout down onto the same glacier. There we spent a long time sitting in the sun with no one else around. We were all confused as to how we could be in such a majestic location without a huge crowd.  Afterwards we hiked down to Svartifoss and saw incredible basalt columns with a waterfall rushing over them.

The night before all of that we arrived at Skaftafell unintentionally to camp for the night. Another campsite was our intended destination but I'm so glad we landed here. We set up camp and began to make a dinner of assorted soup and mashed potatoes with a bannock dessert. While making the bannock, using a recipe taught to us by Belgians, we realized the sky had cleared up and some northern lights were floating around. So there we were eating bannock and jam at a picnic table in Skaftafell 2km from the foot of a glacier under a starry sky and northern lights. Iceland continues to make me use large adjectives and I often think the word "magical".  We've also seen Geysir, Gulfoss, and a glacier lagoon. I've been in a near state of perpetual excitement for the past few days. Just riding in a car in this country is a joyfull experience. Everything I've seen deserves its own post. But, my time for writing is limited and I'd rather not write that many posts at once. So I'll focus on my favorite place so far. Thingvellir.

A little after 900 AD Thingvellir became the meeting place of the Icelandic parliment. Here at the Althing and the Law Rock they laid down the rules of the land. It's located in a rift valley and is quite a magical place. One of the UNESCO World Heritage sites. But more importantly for me here in the year 2014 it became the meeting place of friends. I hitchhiked up to Thingvellir from Selfoss to spend a few nights. It took me three rides. The first ride was from a nice Icelandic man with a dead reindeer in his backseat which poked me in the back. He said he always tries to give rides to tourists when he can, it's his duty as an Icelandic guy to show us his country. I'm very thankful his attitude. The second ride came from a single mother of three on the way to her Summer house which she is rennovating. She was eager to talk and I was willing to listen. She hopes to save money and begin travelling when her two teenage sons are out of the house. Most of her free time is spent on Google Earth street view day dreaming. One day I hope she follows her dream. And finally I was driven to Thingvellir by a friendly young couple of Germans. The man is a cop and the woman studying at university. They took me all the way to the parking lot in the national park. Relying on the kindness of strangers is an odd way to travel but it's a lot of fun.

Once in the national park the real magic began. After a hike down into the rift I headed for the nearest campsite. It's here I had my first chance encounter. Jack, a touring cyclist from Canada that I met in Selfoss, was walking down a path toward me. We both left the same day and ended up together again. He's a friendly man with many great adventures to tell about. He has spent his life travelling in the Canadian backcountry and around the world. I continued to the camp and pitched my tent next to his. Not long after this I heard English from the covered picnic area so I walked over to investigate. Hearing "their so darn cute" I realized it must be Asbjørn (Esbian) talking about his cats. So I slid into view and we had a grand reunion. It had been days since we last met in Selfoss. I didn't expect to see him again here in Iceland but I'm so glad I did. That night Asbjørn, Jack, a couple Frenchmen and a very interesting man affectionately called Maxi hung out at the Chevro-let bar. Our new French friends convinced us to drink a bit of whiskey and coke. This turned into a long night of playing music and laughing. The next day Asbjørn and I hiked in the park down to the lake and back up by abandoned farms and fields. At the lake we shared a can of beans after he took a dip in the near freezing water.

That night a northern lights tour showed up to our humble homes and we enjoyed the company of so many new people. Particularly two friendly British girls from Nottingham. We stood in the field learning about how boring England can be while watching the lights amid Japanese tourists softly exclaiming "Aurora!" from time to time. And to add excitment to our night an elderly American took to a play by play announcement of it all. Also the incident in which two folks legs gave out due to joy, or age cold and darkness, added a bit of humor. A rather large earthquake must have struck that only they could feel. The next day our French friends had to leave abruptly but they left behind all of their groceries. This is where we met three Belgian medical students that taught us about bannock. At the end of the feast and at their departure we exchanged contact info, another new friend I hope to hear from soon.

And finally, the day after that my real adventure began. Anna and I had a bit of communication to plan her meeting me at the campsite between 12-1. Beginning around 11:30 I learned how a dog must feel waiting for its family to return home. I watched the parking lot hardly moving away from my post. Unfortunately I'm an old dog and my senses aren't the best. Around 1 I heard "Zeb?" from behind me in a voice I last heard way back in Boone. If I had a tail objects placed on a coffee table would be in danger of an unexpected flight. That moment may be the most excited I've been to see someone in a while. Sorry Anna about the excessively long hug. As I have no tail that's the only way I thought to express my joy. To see a familiar face in such a strange place was wonderful. And of course it was great to meet you too, Megan. They were kind enough to let Asbjørn ride along and add some Danish flavor to our adventure. He and I could barely contain our excitement at being in a car we wouldn't be getting out of. There was even music and heat.

And that's how I've been able to see so much and travel so far. Automobiles really are pretty incredible. We've since lost one of our crew, Asbjørn. He stayed behind in Djúpivogur to work on homework. It's such a cozy little town like one out of a dream. I'm sad to leave him behind but glad he's in such a nice place. He would have left soon after anyway as he's trying to take the "party ferry" back to Denmark. We'll stay in touch and I've promised to one day visit Denmark to see the gobbles, his island and to try a Danish hotdog.

It is thanks to my friends and the people I've met along the way that I've been having such a good time. Without the people my adventure would still be beutiful. I could still have seen it all. But maybe it'd be a bit like eating cereal with water instead of milk. Yes, it's still cereal. But it's so much better with the milk (which is my favorite part). So thank you friends for being the milk in my bowl. You enhance the experience and like the milk collect the memory of the cereal and all the sugary goodness to be had again once it's all gone. The cereal is of course Iceland. Maybe Captain Crunch Berries. Certainly nothing bland. And of course my friends are whole milk. There's nothing left out and there's no substitute like soy or almonds. If you're not a fan of cereal I'll simply say, the people I've met and have been with make my experiences much more valuable. Much of Iceland will be here and unchanged when I return some day, but the people will have changed. I've seen so many in a hurry to run and see a waterfall with no time for their fellow travellers. My advice to them is this, slow down to have a conversation or two and maybe even share a meal. The waterfall can wait a few hours but in that time so many people around will come and go. People with unique stories and backgrounds, travel tips and insight. Svartifoss taught me a lot but not nearly as much as my friends.

Sincerely,
Zeb

Dear Hitchhiking,

I've been told by many people that you're easy to do here in Iceland. And now I know that this is true. Even back home in the US I had never tried hitchhiking. But, I guess that I never really needed to. I've always had a vehicle, and my favorite transportation the bike, or friends and family willing to give me a lift. Hiking all the way to Sólheimar even sounded like a proper adventure. It's only a measly 32km. But I underestimated one small detail. The huge backpack nearing 35lbs that I'd be bringing with me. A true monkey on my back.

Yesterday I woke up around 8, I'd love to have slept in. Wednesday night as I was about to get up from the Gesthus couch an interesting individual plopped down next to me. Somehow or another we began talking and we hit it off. Turns out he's from Denmark and despite our different origins we share many thoughts and interests. He told me all about his hikes and dreams of the Gobbles, a jellyfish. His plans are to create a trilogy of albums about gobbles, cats (we both find them to be so darn cute), and seagulls. The latter he was once offended to hear called the rats of the sky. Anyway, he deserves an entire post on his own. What I'm trying to say is that I stayed up late and didn't sleep much. So, there I am at 8 packing my things away and eager to hit the road. But before that I decided it'd be best to eat a fair bit of the food some kind soul left behind at the Gesthus free table. I believe it may have been the open box of cheerios that had been visited by who knows how many hands where I've gotten my sore throat from. After stuffing my face like a bear preparing for hibernation I decided maybe I'd wait a bit to see if my Danish friend would emerge from his tent. Unfortunately he did not and it was time for me to go. I hope you're well Espian (Esbian? or something...) and that we cross paths again. He was headed to the Blue Lagoon after finding his blue speedo and remembering a dream of being there. Don't forget to email me.

So, I finally hit the road. This is the part where I take notice of my monkey. Motivating myself with thoughts of Bill Bryson's unfit friend that he drags along the AT in "A Walk in the Woods", I decide I can toughen up and do it. After all I consider myself an endurance athlete! The bridge out of town comes and goes and my march continues. One more roundabout later I come to the sign pointing toward Geysir and road #35. It's here I remember google maps telling me that I'd be on this road 20km. The distance is offset by the view of a mossy plataeu alongside the road and I'm still paying no mind to the many cars whizzing by towards Geysir. At least until I feel the twin blisters that have taken up residence on the bottom of each foot. Now I begin paying more attention to each passing vehicle. What a marvelous invention the automobile is. All I'd need to do is stick out my thumb and maybe I'd get a ride. But I was faced with a similar feeling as if I were asking a girl out on a date. My mind was filled with thoughts of looking silly, and failure. I began telling myself "What's the worst that happens? They just keep driving." And so my attempt at hitchhiking began. And luckily it went a lot better than my attempts at dating.

After working up the courage I began sticking out my thumb for each car I heard coming towards me. I kept walking as thoughts of failure kept my legs moving. At this point I was still ~3hrs walking from Borg. It was already 3:00. Many cars passed me by but with each one I was never discouraged. It was almost a relief actually. When a car finally stopped I'd be faced with what to do. Again, a bit like dating. And so I almost didn't believe it when finally a car passed and I saw break lights. My heart began beating a little quicker, this was it. Like a scene from a romantic film with two lovers running towards each other. Only I awkwardly jogged and the car slowly backed up until the two of us met. After a bit of talking I hopped in the front seat, monkey in my lap. My new friend was an older lady willing to give me a ride half-way. I told her I'd never done this before and she said it wasn't a habit of hers to pick folks up off the road. But it was windy and rain looked eminent so she felt pity for me. She was coming from Reykjavik where her husband managed a golf course. Her destination was her greenhouse where she now grows herbs but soon tulips for Christmas. We shared small details about each other and not long after she was dropping me off at her turn, apologizing for not taking me further. I couldn't thank her enough. Success! Suddenly reminded of the cold, wind, blisters and monkey I now threw my thumb up with gusto. Thankfully not long after another car came to a halt. This time an elderly gentleman that reminded me a bit of my grandfather. I told him I was headed to Sólheimar and he said he'd get me to Borg. We didn't talk much as his English and my Icelandic could use some work but I do know he has a son that's a doctor in Minnesota.

When we arrived in Borg I thanked him and decided I should stop there. By now it was a little after 4 and I still had 10km to go on a side road. I went into the gas station, spent 500 ISK on a coke and water, and got directions to the campsite. I spent the night alone in a clearing in front of a moss covered hill and some evergreens. Elves and sheep (baa'ing in the distance) ran through my mind as I tried to drift off. The next morning I awoke to waves of rain and feeling the Cheerio sore throat setting in. I stayed lazy and didn't leave the safety of my tent till the last minute. Luckily when I did the rain subsided and I began my trek. This time I hiked the full 10k to Sólheimar. No rides. Once I arrived I learned I had come a bit late and most things were closing down for Winter. However, in the art gallery a lovely woman prepared me some tea and I sat and wrote in my journal while listening to music she played from her laptop. We talked for a bit and she told me it was a dream that had brought her there. Iceland seems to be the place for dreaming. I could have stayed much longer than I did.

When I finally left I was feeling quite tired and was eager for a ride. But I knew this road was not well travelled and my hopes weren't high. Less than 100m after I left the man who keeps the greenhouses stopped and gave me a lift, he was headed for Borg. We talked about Sólheimar and what he grows, how long he had been there and more. But soon enough we were at our destination. Here I prepared myself for another lonesome night but decided to again test my luck. If I could make it all the way back to Selfoss I'd spend the night at Gesthus. I stood on the corner of the Borg campsite road and 35 with my pack at my feet and thumb out. I'm not sure how long I waited but it wasn't too much. A nice rental car pulled up and a man hopped out of the car to open the trunk. I threw my backpack in and hopped in the back. It was a father/son couple in Iceland on business but they had been up at Geysir for fun. They're from Switzerland and own a horse meat processing plant in Selfoss. They used to import from the US but since Americans became horrified at the idea of eating horse that has become difficult. Not so here in Iceland. The son told me he had a bad experience with Americans around 10 years ago and used to dislike us. But he worked writing songs for a musician in California and through her he learned to give Americans a chance. I hope I left a positive impression. He told me how he'd like to visit the US for Thanksgiving and Black Friday. While he'd rather spend money on nonmaterial things he's fascinated by the idea of our shopping day. These two kind Swiss gentlemen got me to road #1. I hopped out here as they continued to Reykjavik. Soon after I was passing the roundabout, crossing the bridge and walking down the street to pay my money and get a place for my tent.

I began this post in the communal room, all the faces are new, and I'm ending it in the tent. The owner came in to let us know the northern lights are starting. Tonight's show is supposed to be spectacular according to a man at Sólheimar. I've been out in the field but now I'm attempting to warm up a bit. Soon enough I'll be out there again. The lights come and go and I'd hate to miss something good. In between the satellites, shooting stars, regular stars and moon keep me entertained. The world isn't such a bad place. I've been reminded that there's lots of good out there. Something I'll try not to forget, and maybe one day I'll give someone a lift. Physically or emotionally.

Sincerely,
Zeb

Dear Gesthus,

Currently I'm sitting in your campsite common room on a large, black, L-shaped couch. I'm charging my phone while waiting for my instant noodles to finish cooking. Someone that looks to be aroud my age is cleaning up after the meal he and his friend just ate. The large windows looking out into the campground are slightly cracked and a cool breeze along with the sounds of children playing is finding its way in. There's a pond and a group of young school kids seem to be having a lesson involving it. They're all wearing neon yellow vests and rain gear.

Here in the common room people come and go. Every now and then a kind British man pops in. He's touring Iceland by bike, this is his second year. While others I've seen since my arrival yesterday disappeared into the country for good. Tents are taken down and new ones are put up. Soon I'll be one of those taking their tent down and heading out. Iceland is home to Sólheimar which is called the oldest eco-village in the world. It began as a children's home and now offers creative and fun employment for those with special needs. They also offer classes in sustainable living. In fact Sustainable Development is a large part of what they do. Along with classes they offer various volunteer and internship positions. As I'm not sure what it is I'll be doing in the future, maybe it's worth a look. It's 32km away and I think it wouldn't be such a bad walk. Maybe I'll even try a bit of hitchhiking. I've got 8 days to kill before my friend Anna and her friend Megan arrive.

For now though I'm enjoying my relaxation at the Gesthus resort. There's a very hot shower available whenever I want, WiFi from the tent, a kitchen, this cozy communal room and a toilet that flushes. I'm loving the toilet. But stand up before flushing, it's a bit powerful. There's even a place to do laundry for the steep price of 1,000 ISK, the price I paid for one night! But when it has been 5.5 weeks since the last time you properly washed anything you feel inclined to pay and not haggle. There's also some great entertainment in the form of a few old Gestabók, or guestbooks. Filled with good, poor, foul and interesting art. Accompanied of course by lovely entries with praise and thoughts on this interesting country. The guestbook is much like conversation here in the room. Most of it is in a language I don't understand but it's nice to hear or read a bit of English. There's even an entry in a made up language from the Artemis Fowl books. A series I loved to read at a younger age and may now have to revisit.

Today I'll probably be a bit lazy. There's a grocery store not far off that I need to visit, this is my third instant noodle meal. And I read about an independent book store. The British man told me he saw a bike shop, that'd be fun too. I think Selfoss has a bit to offer and I'm in no rush. Another night surely wouldn't hurt. The only other two Americans that were here could spare no time as they tried to plan out their last two action packed days. It seemed to be such a hassle to be in such a rush.

I'm now alone and the British man has said farewell. My noodle lunch is almost gone. The wind in the trees sounds peaceful. Maybe a nap here on the couch should be added to my agenda.

Sincerely,
Zeb

P.S. I left the dogs behind a bit suddenly. I feel that I'll have to wrap that up properly with another post at another time. The opportunity came up to be on my way so I went.

Dear Nature,

You are sublime. And I don't mean you're not quite a lime. If I remember correctly a sublime feeling comes about from seeing a sight that is quite frightening but at the same time enchanting. A couple of my classes at Appalachian State dealt with what the sublime is. I should have paid better attention. My apologies to Tim Silver and Chuck Smith, two wonderful teachers, who taught me quite a bit. Or tried their best to. Someone else I've recently learned a bit from is my Uncle Jim. While his knowledge comes from outside of a classroom and is offered free of charge I find it valuable all the same. I'm not saying I'd pay you Uncle Jim, but you'd have made a good college professor. When asked what spirituality is his reply included: "But, while we respond to physical stimuli, what we sense and our responses are non-material. We are sensing, holistically, more than our physical senses are providing." A spiritual feeling may come from a lack of our senses being able to fully tell our body what we're experiencing. This sounds frightening and enchanting.

I believe spirituality and the sublime go hand in hand. And I'm not sure I understood either before I came to Iceland. Back in Boone I of course saw wonderful things. Every day I think fondly of my mountain home and the friends I have there. But I think I became too comfortable there. It's a place I could see myself growing old. The sights became a part of the everyday. The ordinary. I expected grand vistas, smokey mountains and blue skies. Every now and then though something would catch me off guard such as Little Lost Cove or a new road shown to me by a friend. But it wasn't until I got out of my comfort zone here in the alien world of Iceland that I was really caught by surprise at the beauty of nature. Here I have had three encounters with nature that left me feeling blessed. Or if I may use the word, sublime.

The first came on a cool morning around 7:00. I had recently woken up to throw on my jogging attire. Hiking boots, sleeping shorts, trusty llama hat and long sleeve shirt. My morning jog takes me down by Pjorsa, the glacier fed river. A sight to behold on its own. But this morning it wouldn't be the river that made me stop. It was the sun, a few well placed clouds and Eyjafjallajökull. The infamous volcano was lit up by the sunrise like I had not seen before. By this day I had done this jog many times but it was as if I saw the mountain and glacier for the first time. Even after attempting to take it all in I couldn't take my eyes off the view the entire jog. How many landmine poos laid by the dog militia I set off I can not say.

The second and no less terrifyling awesome was a bike ride to Urridafoss. This past Tuesday I hopped on a bike and headed for the waterfall. Little did I know what awaited me. After much joyfull pedalling I came across a dinky parking lot that could fit at best 8 compact cars. Luckily there was only one SUV. Plenty of room for my bike. As I pulled in I wasn't sure it was even the right place. But then I spotted some mist and heard the roar of water. And what a roar it is. Urridafoss is the most voluminous waterfall in all of Iceland. The entire Pjorsa river flows through it. As I walked down the path to get a better view the only other couple of people there were on their way out. I found myself alone at what should surely be a highly visited tourist destination. Again I stood still and tried to take in what was in front of me. A waterfall like nothing I've seen. I lack the words to properly describe it and the mathematics don't do it justice. Unless you own a power company. In which case you see the math and think "how lovely". Which is why one day Urridafoss might turn into a trickle as a power company may divert the water to convert a magnificent sight, a unique sight, into simple electricity. As I sat down to eat my peanut butter and raspberry jam sandwich I tried to wrap my head around that idea. I may never understand.

Most recently, last night actually, I was confronted by a third and final (for now) blessing. Never have I felt so small. I've always dreamed of seeing the Northern Lights and last night that dream came true. I was awoken by some awful sound and for a while sat in my sleeping bag bewildered as to why my new bunkmate Ricke had set her alarm to 11:30pm. It took me a bit to realize it was my staff phone ringing. I hopped up and sleepily answered it to hear "we have the Northern Lights". I had asked Siggi to let me know if he saw them, he must suffer from insomnia. Suddenly I was awake throwing on a sweater and pants to stumble out into the cold feeling like a kid on Christmas morning. And there in the sky in the direction the sun set was a green line. It seemed to be alive. Growing and shrinking and changing in intensity. At times it seemed like a big green misty cloud. Above me was a clear sky with countless stars and at my back was a moon nearing fullness. There was hardly a cloud and the silence was broken only by cows mooing at the next farm over. I'd like to think they were reviewing the show. "Nice one tonight isn't it Bessy?" I'm not sure how long I stood out in the cold looking above but it wasn't long enough. Now I can say I've seen the Northern Lights but I'm just as excited to see them again. Just like Christmas. Hopefully this comes more than once a year.

Three experiences and three times I was left feeling blessed. Left feeling there was something more at work than what I was sensing. The sublime. It all left me with a great ammount of respect for the world we live in. And what a world it is. I'm eager to see more. Thank you Iceland for shocking me. For showing me things I had dreamed of and reminding me some dreams come true. Like my Mom said, maybe this is the ultimate education. Soooweeee.

Sincerely,
Zeb